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Nearly four years after Russia launched a full-scale war on Ukraine, St. Petersburg today exists in a strange limbo. Though the front lines are hundreds of miles away, drones occasionally fly overhead, airports shut down without warning and military recruitment ads are plastered over bus stops.
The Moscow Times spoke to some residents of Russia’s second-largest city about how the war has transformed their everyday lives. Their surnames have been withheld to protect their identities.
One of them Maria manages a dance school in central .
“Everything comes in waves,” she says, describing how student enrollment has fluctuated since the war began. “The first wave of departures came right after February 24, 2022. Many of our regular students left the country. Then came the second wave during the mobilization in September — that really hit us hard.”
The international connections that once enriched her school have largely vanished. “We used to have foreign instructors flying in regularly for seminars. Now, if someone comes once a year, that’s amazing.” Personal travel has become prohibitively expensive. “It’s not that I can’t get a visa — you generally still can — but the flight costs are simply impossible now.” Maria tries to find humor in her everyday reality. “I constantly think about how much better it would be if men came to dance instead of taking up weapons and going to kill people in a neighboring country. I even thought about making that our school’s slogan on social media, but I understand perfectly well that I’d be arrested immediately.”
Tatyana works at a photography studio and got divorced in September 2022, when the Kremlin launched its “partial” mobilization for the war. “Bad timing,” she jokes, though nothing about it feels funny.
“When you live in normal, peaceful times, personal problems hit you hard but your mind is free from fear about the country’s future,” she says. “Here, you’re forced to think about whether it’s even safe to live and stay here with your child. This weighs heavily on your ordinary life.”
Artyom is a trauma surgeon who made a radical decision six months ago: he stopped reading the news completely.
“I unsubscribed from all the news because I couldn’t cope anymore. That made things much easier,” he says. But he can’t escape from the military recruitment ads at bus stops that promise 200,000-ruble or $2,500 salaries for contract soldiers, more than triple what most doctors earn.
“The sign-up payment is 3 million rubles or $37,600. With my salary, I’d need to work more than four years to earn that much. And military personnel get it simply for signing a contract,” he says bitterly.
Nikita studied journalism for four years. He now delivers packages for Yandex, navigating St. Petersburg’s streets with other people’s purchases instead of pursuing stories.
“Honestly, I just got tired of university studies. I didn’t get much from them,” he says.
But there is more to the story. He grew sick of the propaganda that took over campus, from mandatory courses on “information security” that were actually about identifying “fake news” from Western sources to professors who taught students to write patriotic features about local military families.
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